New York’s Will Skudin meets up with Hawaiian friends Kealii Mamala and Garret Mcnamara to take part of one of the heaviest sessions to date at the world’s most dangerous wave. Teahupoo Tahiti ! NYSEA got up with him on Skype yesterday to ask him about the swell.
NYSEA “Fill us in, how was that session and that wave?
Will ” First off I am just thankful to have friends like Kealii, calling me up over a week ago and inviting me to join him on this crazy mission. It was my first time to Tahiti and this wave demands respect. I surfed the day before the swell and the morning before the swell filled in. So I got to get a feel for the wave. When the swell started filling in I watched Garret and Kealii just go back to back. From the channel watching it just sucks the life out of you. I cant even describe what it feels like looking into that monster waiting your turn. Then I was up. I felt like my whole life built up to that moment. I grabbed the rope sat out the back. Kealii pulled me into a sick warm up wave first that felt so good. Then we waited for a bigger one. He pulled me into a good size one that hit the south reef hard. I got as low on the wave as possible then just set a quick line. It was the sickest view ever, but I thought a was too deep. Then the thing spit so hard, I felt like I was floating in the barrel and that time stood still. It spit for such a long time that it gave me time to think in it. I remember thinking to myself, hold on your coming out and I said that in my mind like 4 times ahahaha. Then I just flew out. At that moment, I don’t think words can explain that feeling. All I can say is I was amped out of my skin. Best feeling ever ! I didn’t end up getting any waves much bigger then that. I watched some of the most amazing rides in the world go down. For me, I feel like it was my first time out there and I learned alot about the wave. Next time I will do my best and hopefully get one of those big nuts ones. For now I am content, stoked and blessing the have health and life. Thank you everyone for all the support ! ”
NYSEA ” Thank you for making NY proud !”